Muker village from the direction A.W. approached it on the evening of the 25th Sept "A flowery alpine village" (A.W.)

That evening on entering the village over the bridge A.W. knocked on the door of the first house, the cottage here on the right. At that time occupied by twin sisters called Middleton. One of whom spoke to A.W. with her ill fitting teeth. perhaps it was Sissy*

Muker is still a pleasant Dales village catering for the visitor.

Muker Village Institute.

Wainwright did get a room for the night at the house of the Harker's (David and Margaret). The house, South View can be seen here top left with the conservatory. *

*Information supplied to me by Mr Norman Guy of Muker.

I left Muker at about 8.30am a time I judged would be close to A.W. as he had breakfast at 8am and then departed Muker.

"I crossed a few wet fields and came alongside the river" (A.W.) I was lucky in that today was a perfect autumn day with bright sunshine. A.W. was seeing this in rain.

Joining the river we were to follow the path on the left up towards Keld.

Drystone walls and field barns cover the landscape.

Early morning sun into Swinnergill.

Many of the small ruins were actually miners cottages. Just enough room for a small family.

The interior of the cottage above.

The path continues to Keld.

"there are waterfalls in plenty if you take the trouble to look for them." (A.W.). Kisdon Force.

Its not too clear whether A.W. did visit the falls at this time but I ventured down to the river for a look.

Limestone Crags under Kisdon.

Falls near Keld.

Dippers thrive in this fast flowing river.

"you enter this village (Keld) by the back way, beside the chapel." (A.W.).

The sundial at the chapel. I was slightly ahead of A.W's timings.

Wainwright left Keld at a quarter to eleven so I used the spare half and hour that I had in hand to catch up with friends who run Keld Lodge.

After coffee I left Keld at 10.45 back on schedule with A.W.

Soon after leaving the village I was to take the Tan Hill road which turns off over a bridge at these houses.

Signs of autumn as I cross the bridge.

Looking back to the dale as I climb towards West Stonesdale.

The hamlet of West Stonesdale.

Remote farmsteads before the open moor.

The vast open moor that leads to Tan Hill. 70 years ago this scene was enveloped in thick mist and rain.

The low parapeted Stonesdale bridge.

Had visibility been better at the time A.W. may have commented on this structure adjacent to the bridge. These sheep folds are next to a washing dub, a pool in the river where in days past the shepherds would wash the sheep prior to clipping.

Zeta stands next to one of the only road signs on this long stretch of road. As sharp right hand mentioned by A.W.

Had he weather like me, this would have been A.W's first view of the famous Tan Hill Inn.

At the road junction there still is a sign proclaiming the pub's record as the highest Inn in Great Britain.

As it was on that damp day in 1938 a blazing fire fills the grate, but then I believe it does so everyday of the year. Perhaps a tradition harking back to the day when coal mines dotted the landscape hereabouts.

Wainwright stopped at the pub for well over an hour so I also used my time to take refreshment and look at the maps.

Tan Hill under a sunny sky. In 1938 there would have also been another detached building to the left of the pub, long since gone. The extension attached to the right of the current building had not been added.

As Wainwright did I left Tan Hill at just before half past one. Unlike him I could clearly see the road ahead. Despite its popularity I was only past by about 10 cars between here and the turn off for Bowes.

After two miles the turn off left to Bog Moss.

The road is unsuitable for motors. A.W. called it "a dreary upland waste" he may have changed his mind on a day like today.

This fine sheep fold sits neatly on the moor.

At this point on the moor the Pennine way rejoins my route. It would have been easy for me to have taken that path instead of following A.W's. 1938 route but that would have not been true to my objective.

Nearing Sleightholme I pass this old neglected road sign, something I have done on many walks. This time it seems to be more relevant. It may not date as far back as 1938 but it does look to be in keeping with the time that A.W. passed this way.

Sleightholme Farm past where Wainwright encountered the field of bulls.

After a mile or so A.W. viewed "a prominent white building".

"At one point, my way lead through a delightful little wood" (A.W.) This fine wood is one of the last stands of trees that originally made up the ancient Stainmore Forest.

Not an Air-raid shelter after all... Bowes Castle gets nearer.

Not mentioned by name, the cluster of houses that is Gilmonby. These are possibly the "picturesque cottages and stately residences" to which he refers. Since his time Gilmonby Hall, which he could have viewed along this lane on the left has been completely demolished. It was fronted by a fine garden with ornamental ponds. I wonder if this was the "perfumed Paradise"?

Sunlit waters under Gilmonby bridge.

Once in Bowes village A.W. had tea in the cold parlour of a house by the castle. This could be the house but it has been difficult to find out exactly.

St Giles church Bowes. It has connections with Charles Dickens when he came to research Nicholas Nickleby in the village. The clock shows almost 4, perfect timing.

Bowes Castle where A.W. struggled to fit the whole building into his viewfinder. Unfortunately his shutter on his camera was left open so he had not photographs between here and Blanchland.

The Ancient Unicorn Inn.

At exactly 5pm as A.W. did I left Bowes and headed along the road towards Cotherstone. Up until this time I had been accompanied on the route by my dogs. However, I felt that the last 6 miles of road walking would not be of any benefit to them so Esther picked them up and took them home.

Deepdale bridge on the Cotherstone road.

The road across Cotherstone Moor. "Teesdale was now opening out before me."(A.W.)

Sheep graze in the evening sun.

The Butterstone on Cotherstone Moor. Historic interest dates back to the time of the plague when stories have it that food and money were exchanged here to prevent the spread of the disease.

The slender spire of Cotherstone church that Wainwright refers to. The time is now just after 6, I had increased my pace to make the  most of the evening light to get these photographs.

"Its houses are large and of good appearance, its roads neat and its hedges well trimmed" (A.W.)

Cotherstone seems to have changed little in 70 years.

The Inn that A.W. passes in the village with cars outside was this, The Fox and Hounds, still a popular hostelry.

The route continues on through the village.

and crosses the river Balder on towards Romaldkirk.

Past the remains of an ancient cross near Doe Park.

"The western sky was still rosy" (A.W.). The fields were shrouded with a low mist when A.W. passed by but I was lucky to capture the sinking sun.

On entering Romaldkirk A.W. passes The Rose and Crown "out of question for me; it looked much to fine and expensive..." (A.W.)

As I entered the village the church clock struck seven, exactly half an hour ahead of A.W. This extra speed on my part was purely to enable me to get these last photographs in the fading light.

As A.W. did on 26th September 1938 I ended the day here at The Kirk Inn, Romaldkirk where welcome refreshment was taken.

In conclusion it was a long but fascinating day. To have followed in the footsteps of A.Wainwright, one of this country's most famous walkers on the 70th anniversary of the third day of his Pennine Journey gave me an insight to exactly how this man paced himself. Over 21 miles of road walking at his pace was wearying but I was lucky for he was to carry on on his journey, the next day hiking all the way to Blanchland and then beyond. For me I was heading home to a hot bath!

A Pennine Journey by A. Wainwright has been published by both Penguin Books and Michael Joseph.